President of Aconcagua Expediciones & Heber
Orona Expeditions
Certified High Altitude Mountain Guide
National Mountain Instructor (Argentina)
Speaks English and Spanish
Climbed Mt. Everest (8,848 meters) by way of
the North Route (Tibet) in
May of 1999, becoming the first Argentine to
climb this mountain without oxigen or the aid
of high altitude porters.
Made his first trip to the Himalayas in 1998
to climb Mt. Makalu (8,463 meters)
Has climbed Mt. Aconcagua (6,962 meters) 23 times
up 4 different routes:
Normal or Northwest Route
Polish Glacier
South Face (Messner Route)
False Polish Route
Climbed some of the most important
peaks in the world, such as Monte Everest 8.848m,
Aconcagua 6.962m, McKinley 6.194m, Pirámide
de Carstensz 5.029m, Kilimanjaro 5.895m, Elbrus
5.642m, Tupungato 6.500m, Mercedario 6.770m,
Ojos del Salado 6.863m, Illimani 6.400m, Huayna
Potosí 6.100m, Condoriri 5.500m, Pequeño
Alpamayo 5.400m, Pico Plata 6.000m, Vallecitos
5.700m, Orizaba 5.700m, Lanín 3.770m,
Plata 6.100m, Agustín Álvarez
5.300m, Tambillos 5.600m, Lomas Amarillas 5.300m
Climbed more than 10 peaks over 6000 m.
Climbed more than 50 peaks over 5000 m.
Climbed more than 300 peaks between 1.50m. a 5.000m.
Climbed in 6 Continents, South America, North America,
Europe, Oceania, Africa and Asia.
Climbed in several countries: Argentina, Chile,
Peru, Bolivia, Mexico, USA, Rusia, Irian Jaya, Spain,
Switzerland, Tanzania, Nepal and Tibet
Member of the Andean Rescue Team
("Grupo de Socorro Andino").
Member of Mendoza's High Altitude Mountain &
Trekking Guides Association
Founder and Member of IMA (International
Mountaineers Association)
Miguel
Sanchez
General Coordinator of Trekking and Expeditions
of "Heber Orona Expeditions"
High Altitude and Trekking Guide.
National Climbing Instructor (Argentina).
Speaks Spanish, English, and basic French.
In 1990 climbed Mount Dhaulagiri I 8.172m.,
been the first Argentinean who climbs successfully
an 8.000m. peak in the Himalayas Range.
In 1988 went for the first time to Himalayas,
Mount Annapurna I, 8.091m.
Climbed 34 times Mount Aconcagua, 6.962m.,
by 4 different routes:
Normal Route (Northwest)
Poland Glacier (Direct Via)
South Face (French Route -First Mendoza's
Expedition)
"False" Poland Glacier
Climbed some of the most important peaks
in the world, such as Dhaulagiri I 8.172m.,
Cho Oyu 8.201m. (Winter), Mt. Aconcagua
6.962m., Belgrano 6.200m., Marmolejo 6.000m.,
Illimani 6.400m., Huayna Potosí
6.100m., Plata Peak 6.000m., Vallecitos
5.700m., Plata 6.100m. (Winter), Agustín
Álvarez 5.300m., Lomas Amarillas
5.300m., Colorado 5.400m., Mexico 5.085m.,
Mt. Elbrus 5.642m. (winter), Tambillos
5.600m.
Climbed more than 10 peaks over 6000
m.
Climbed more than 70 peaks over 5000
m.
Climbed more than 500 peaks between
1.500 m. a 5.000m.
Climbed in 4 Continents, South America
Europe, Africa and Asia.
Climbed in several countries: Argentina,
Chile, Bolivia, Rusia, France, Spain, Switzerland,
Tanzania, Nepal.
Member of the Andean Rescue Team ("Grupo
de Socorro Andino").
Member of Mendoza's High Altitude Mountain
& Trekking Guides Association.
Victor
Gutierrez
National Mountain Guide
A.A.G.M. Member (Argentina's Mountain Guides
Association)
Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing and Mountaineering
Instructor.
Authorized by National Park Administration
(Argentina)
Began mountain sports in 1964.
Did a lot of traverses in Southern "Hielos
Continentales" (Continental Ice), in
Southern Patagonia
More than 200 Traverses in the Patagonian
Andes, with al least 20 in winter.
Climbed Mountains and Volcanoes: Aconcagua
6.962m., Tupungato 6.500m. (V.), Mercedario
6.770m., Ojos del Salado 6.983m. (V.), Plata
6.100m., Plomo 6.100m., Juncal 5.900m.,
Tolosa 5.600m., Fitz Roy, Aguille Poincenot,
Torre Egger, Torre Standhardt, Aguille Guillaumet,
San Lorenzo, Volcán Lautaro, Moreno,
Pirámide, San Valentín, Domo
Blanco, Volcán Lanín, Monte
Tronador, Volcán Domuyo, Cresta de
Gallo, Bonete, Cuernos del Dayblo, by different
routes, even in winter, in various technical
grades.
More than 600 peaks between 1500 and 7000m
climbed.
Ice Climbing courses, given in the Cerro
Tronador Area (Bariloche).
Rock Climbing courses given in the "Cerro
de La Ventana" Area, Cerro López
and Aguilles near Frey Refuge (C.Catedral
- Bariloche).
Post Graduate course given in the tourism
School, Cuyo's National University (UNC).
Post Graduate courses given for Trekking
guides in mountain ranges" for the
Lanín National Park Administration.
Consultor, advisor in mountain matters of
the National Park Administration of Argentina's
Federal Government; the Cuyo's National
University; Tourist Guides Association;
High Schools and Spéleo Groups.
Coordinates the searching and rescues in
Lanin national Park.
Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing and mountaineering
courses given for the Police of Rio Negro
Province.
Rescue Courses given for the Lanín
National Park's rangers.
High risk jobs, made in 500m. Sandstone
walls, for specialized earthquakes companies.
Jano
Gutierrez
National Mountain Guide
A.A.G.M. Member (Argentina's Mountain Guides
Association)
Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing and Mountaineering
Instructor.
Authorized by National Park Administration
(Argentina)
Began mountain sports in 1964.
Did a lot of traverses in Southern "Hielos
Continentales" (Continental Ice), in
Southern Patagonia
More than 200 Traverses in the Patagonian
Andes, with al least 20 in winter.
Climbed Mountains and Volcanoes: Aconcagua
6.962m., Tupungato 6.500m. (V.), Mercedario
6.770m., Ojos del Salado 6.983m. (V.), Plata
6.100m., Plomo 6.100m., Juncal 5.900m.,
Tolosa 5.600m., Fitz Roy, Aguille Poincenot,
Torre Egger, Torre Standhardt, Aguille Guillaumet,
San Lorenzo, Volcán Lautaro, Moreno,
Pirámide, San Valentín, Domo
Blanco, Volcán Lanín, Monte
Tronador, Volcán Domuyo, Cresta de
Gallo, Bonete, Cuernos del Dayblo, by different
routes, even in winter, in various technical
grades.
More than 600 peaks between 1500 and 7000m
climbed.
Ice Climbing courses, given in the Cerro
Tronador Area (Bariloche).
Rock Climbing courses given in the "Cerro
de La Ventana" Area, Cerro López
and Aguilles near Frey Refuge (C.Catedral
- Bariloche).
Post Graduate course given in the tourism
School, Cuyo's National University (UNC).
Post Graduate courses given for Trekking
guides in mountain ranges" for the
Lanín National Park Administration.
Consultor, advisor in mountain matters of
the National Park Administration of Argentina's
Federal Government; the Cuyo's National
University; Tourist Guides Association;
High Schools and Spéleo Groups.
Coordinates the searching and rescues in
Lanin national Park.
Rock Climbing, Ice Climbing and mountaineering
courses given for the Police of Rio Negro
Province.
Rescue Courses given for the Lanín
National Park's rangers.
High risk jobs, made in 500m. Sandstone
walls, for specialized earthquakes companies.
Jose
Mijares
Spanish Citizen, Geographer and Mountain
Guide in 16 European countries.
Speaks Spanish, English, Italian and French.
Did several trips with different goals
(climb, investigation, culture) in India,
Thailand, Indonesia, Laos, Cambodia and
Vietnam.
Did different Trekking expeditions to the
Annapurna Area in Nepal, Taman Negara in
Malasia, New Zeland and the Cradle Mountain
Trekk en Tasmania.
Did the traverse in the Hoggar range, in
camels, in Argelia; and the complete Traverse
to the Sierra Nevada in Spain.
Climbed more than 150 peaks between
1.50m. a 5.000m.
Climbed in 5 Continents, South America,
North America, Europe, Oceania, Africa.
Climbed in several countries: Argentina,
Chile, Peru, Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador,
Venezuela, Guatemala, Mexico, USA, Rusia,
Irian Jaya, Spain, France, Switzerland,
Tanzania, Borneo, Sumatra, Marruecos, New
Zeland, Nepal, Tibet, New Zeland and Australia.
Oscar Gómez
Yunes (Laky)
General coordinator of Heber Orona Expediciones´s
technical area.
High mountain ang trekking Guide.
National Andinism Instructor
Educational Physique professor.
Outdoor activities Instructor
Member of the Socorro Andino´s group (
mountain rescues) .
Member of the Directive Comission of (A.A.G.P.M.)
Profesional Mountain
Guides Argentine Asociation
Profesor of ¨ Guide techniques I y II ¨,
of the mountain guides school.
P.A.S.E.C. of Anatomy, Phisiology and Physical
work of the mountain guide school.
Speaks English
WORK EXPERIENCE
More than 18 years in mountain experience.
High Mountain Guide for National and International
companies.
More than 10 years with profesional experience
in mountains (working as profesor, instructor
and guide).
Works training Rescue Technics, Climbing,
etc. to different Institutions like:
Mendoza´s city Sports secretary;
Mendoza´s city Sports direction;
Florida´s University – Bs.
As.;
Fysique education Institute from Avellaneda
Bs. As.;
High mountain guides provincial school
¨Valentín Ugarte¨;
Mendoza´s Fysique education Institute
Dr. Jorge. E. Coll.;
Andinism clubes;
EUREKA;
Malargüe´s Municipality;
Rangers;
Mendoza´s penitentiary – Mendoza´s
government –
Argentine army VIII va Brigade Mountain
– Mountain instructors group.
Direction and coordination of Security Sistems
in Endurance competitions
Instructor in activities related with security
techniques in " Outdoors Training "
for big companies executives. Comercialized
by Fundación Alta Dirección de
Mendoza.
Staff member of "Outdoors of goup working
and leadership" comercialized by Master
Training in Mendoza for executives of companies
like:
MC Donalds;
Chandon;
UBA professors;
XXI Century University;
Libertad supermarket
Guide and responable technique for high altitude
connections for the TV production TV3 de Cataluña
January 2003. (First live connection in history
¨ 7.000 m/s/n/m¨ - Cº Aconcagua).
First Mendoza´s climber that openned
and climbed sport climbing routes (7 a+) in
the ´80.
Participant in lots of climbing competitions
from 1991, obtaining:
1º place in the National climbing
competition - Organized by the climbing
union and Mendoza´s andinism group
1º place in the Argentine-Chilean
competition, - Organized by Gianni Pedrazoli
and Mauricio Fernández .
10º place in the Panamerican climbing
competition - Bolivia - Organized by the
Panamerican union of mountain assosiations
(U. P. A. M.).
First openner of lots of sport, traditional,
and alpine routes in Mza., Río Negro,
Chubut, Ushuaia.
Lots of climbings in Argentina, Bolivia, Spain,
Austria, Switzerland and Italy.
Climbed mountains in Argentina, Perú,
France and Austria of different technical difficulties
(rock, snow, ice,etc.) like : Cerro Aconcagua
6.962 m ( repeated times); Plata 6.100 m (repeated
times); Vallecitos 5.700 m; Cº Cuernos
5.460 m; Pico Valentín Gómez ¨
5.480 m; Agustín Álvarez 5.300
m; Lomas Amarillas 5.300 m; Cº Artesonraju
6.025 m; Cº Tocllaraju 6.032 m; Cº
Mont Blanc du Tacul 4.248 m; Cº Fluchthorn
Sur 3.399 m; Cº Gamshrorm West 2.987 m;
etc.
Climbed lots of 3000 m/s/n/m; 4000 m/s/n/m
y 5000 m/s/n/m mountains;
Co and Author – Iniciation to mountains
manual, Climbing for the Formal educational
sistem – D. G. E.
AUGUSTO ORTEGA
From Peru, He led many mountaineering expeditions from the last 20 years, and has made ascents of many challenging peaks of the Andes: in Ecuador Chimborazo (16 times), Cotopaxi (20), Cayambe, Tungurahua, Pichincha and Rumiñahui; in Perú Huascaran (36), Alpamayo (24), Yerupaja, Huandoy, Artesonraju and many others, in Bolivia Illimani (12), Huayna Potosí (16), etc.; In Argentina Aconcagua (40) The highest mountain in the western hemisphere; in Chile Torres del Paine. He has also challenged the Himalayas .
In 1992 he became the first Peruvian to successfully climb Mt . Everest , in 1998 Cho Oyu and in 1999 back to Everest, without oxygen, for the second time. He has climbed also Mt. Mc Kinley and several peaks in the Canadian rocky mountains.
Augusto was trained as Civil Engineer, but his passion for the mountains has led him to pursue a permanent career as a professional mountain guide for the past 20 years. His quiet, friendly manner and competence in the mountains assure a rewarding climbing experience. (MTS).
